The dominating mood at Interfilière Paris was a need for vintage, looking back to past references and archived designs. The lace industry especially have been looking into their archives for inspiration, which is incredibly successful. Noyon had a special focus on the forum on their deadstock Leavers laces, which they offer in small quantities for designers - this is despite the fact that they, and others, see the market for Leavers lace shrinking as jacquardtronics have developed into something so fine and delicate that even the true connoisseurs have difficulty seeing the difference. But as well as looking back, we also feel a shift and modernisation of brands who bring new ways to wear your wardrobe - the biggest French lingerie brands like Chantelle X and Aubade are rebranding and completely changing their design strategy.
Here we have our own highlights of the Interfilière fabric forum.
Vintage feel fabrics in dusky and off-white colour ways, small flowers and pointelle - everything that has authenticity to it is hot. Very popular in younger collections, where you see the development of ready-to-wear lingerie. How you wear has an enormous impact on fabric classifications. We were personally very fond of all kinds of small lace bands and trims which, for a big part, were inspired by old fashioned bobbin lace.
We also see very fine and supersoft knits for sleepwear and pyjama ranges, with new wellness qualities and references. We have seen the pyjama range at Calida - 3 ranges with special qualities such as warming (Supima cotton) and cooling (silk-TENCEL blend). Comfortable jerseys next to the skin are priority and developments on warming fabrics are the focus to combat rising energy bills. The real specialists like Feinjersey talk about the comeback of Merino wool; strong developments with this fabric in a modern way. We also love the jelly jersey fabrics from Gemma Knits which have been an enormous success! Everything that is fine and has a high recovery in allover laces is also super important - don’t miss custom services such as individual logo designs from Femina Lace.
Geometrics in unusual colour combinations that journey back to the 60s and 70s are in, also reminiscent of 1950s beachwear fun. Set graphic embroideries and laces off with sporty elastics and new elastic technology: Elastique impressed us with their new seamless bonded waistband technology, not only improving the design appearance of elastics, but also saving energy and costs. New stripes remain relevant in beachwear and resort in varying scales.
Innovative retrospectives - a nostalgic look back to vintage Chantal Thomass, relating strongly to Parisian couture that we love so much. We found this couture edge in the collections by one of our favourite embroidery suppliers from China, Xin Fei Lin. There were strong past references in embroidery collections such as Inter-Spitzen, which was one of the most innovative collections at Interfilière; the built stories around the ethos ‘my home is my castle’, referencing everything from antique castles to modern housing, home comforts and personal luxuries. Also references to past glory at Austrian embroidery masters Hämmerle & Vogel. Beautiful flowers and natural foliage references.
A total luxurious and rich mood in lace and embroideries but also in jerseys - very luxurious and very creative. Interfilière Paris referenced India with their oranges and rich colour scheme throughout the design of the fair, and this was also reflected in fabrics with ornamental designs and a lot of lurex - multiyarns are combined with metallics. The grandmaster in this area is still Iluna, but beautiful embroideries also shone through - a company which has updated their collection with very European taste is LCPP, who create the most beautiful guipure. Guipure in general has an absolute comeback, sometimes being used as an edge, but also in huge scales for allovers which are new for resortwear and beach coverups. Most of the Turkish lace makers are grandmasters here: for example, we see Jade Lace with the most beautiful colours and laces for beach robes.
Although athleisure has established itself in the market, most manufacturers are turning towards the leisure element as a broader observation, which often has a link with beach and resortwear. We see this in the scales, the colours and the freedom of creativity which is brings together a lot of multicultural elements. Lots of references to Africa, with a specific focus on the Mediterranean coastal countries such as Morocco, in the colourations like spicy tones combined with browns.
Even the most exclusive lace companies like Jean Bracq and Solstiss excel in big scale motifs, which are very obviously focussed on the area of luxury travel and leisure outside of our usual working lives. This of course includes the explosion of extraordinary black laces and treatments, and also haute couture types of textured embroideries with raffia and beading which are obviously focused on club and nightlife wear. We are immersed in this world now more than ever, with lingerie and loungewear collections merging with resortwear seamlessly; our brand new inspirational digital report for Resortwear SS24 is available to purchase from our 'Trend Books' tab on this website. It is bursting with colours, themes, sketches and ideas, and is absolutely not to be missed by brands who are looking to expand or update their offer in this huge market area as we predict a big growth in resortwear over the next few years.