Concepts Paris Trend Forum
The Concepts Paris trend forum exhibited 5 major material trends for the AW24-25 season, all of which were based on the themes of Bodily Desires. In travel and culture we have the Desire to Escape: where beach and lounge sees metaverse fantasies and big patterns in nourishing colours and rhythms. In lounge and intimates is the Desire to Slow Down: here softness and nakedness resumes its reign. Think fine denier natural blends and eco-correct cups in the wellness of fabrics and treatments. The sports sphere celebrates the Desire to Be Strong: with focus on moving and shaping up. We see functional fabrics and elastics, laminations, techno finishing: moisture control, anti-UV, anti-bacterial and zone knit technology. The Desire to Seduce is everything leather, glamour and romance in leavers lace, lace impact, broderie anglaise, sensational placements and hardware. Lastly, the Desire to Rebel mirrors the Gen-Z mentality; it’s loud with colour, crazy in texture and quirky in accessories.
Concepts Paris Forum Prototypes
Amongst the tables of fabrics were the Concepts Paris collaboration prototypes. Teaming up with the leading lace and embroidery manufacturers, we’ve designed three looks that embody the new romantic trend in black sexiness. We believe in black in a young and flirtatious context and these samples by Bischoff Gamma and L&A lingerie are perfect examples of this. Here we also used Iluna Groups new mechanical pleated lace to express the emergence of nude-look summer silhouettes.
Jos Berry’s VIP Presentation
In the enchanting and immersive 360* experience, Jos Berry described the event as “one of the most heartwarming Interfilière VIP presentations ever” with an exceptional, packed-out audience. Here is a comprehensive overview of the main themes and exciting developments discussed.
Detoxifying the Lingerie Industry and Rediscovering Seduction: For years the industry has been hyper focused on incorrect sizing and fit. Our CEO stressed the significance of individuality by affirming “it’s not what size you wear, it’s how you wear it!” reinforcing the importance of true body positivity and a celebration of personal style. There is emphasis now on the need to purify the lingerie industry of these concerns, by turning our attention to reviving the art of sensuality.
Innovative Thinking: Biomimicry and Turbo Dry advancements were highlights in the presentation, designed to provide superior performance and enhance wearer experience via sweat management and quick drying capabilities.
Elevate Me Moments: A key talking point was on celebrating the garments worn within the home and glamorising me-time spent wearing them. We explored the intersection of home wear and interiors, with range extensions designed to align with customer lifestyles to create a sense of luxury within their personal spaces.
Cross Categorisation: Although not a new concept, it’s a driving force. The idea of fusing functionality, comfort and style with versatile products that cater to the evolving needs of modern consumers. We showcased exciting interpretations of multi purpose products with the correct fabrics to accommodate - bridging the gaps between activewear, swim and loungerie.
Expanding the Boundaries of Lace: Lace is transcending it’s lingerie boundaries with its presence within activewear and sport e.g. utilising lace in tennis. Demonstrating its versatility and enduring appeal.
Popularity of Pickle Ball: An activity that’s gaining rapid popularity was discussed as not only a fitness fad, but is being treated also as a unique social occasion to dress up and enjoy cocktails in-between sets. This insight provides valuable opportunities for our industry to tap into this emerging trend.
Metaverse-Influenced Colours: We explored the influence of vibrant oranges and greens seen on the screen. Reflecting the digital world’s impact on our physical realities and our experience of hypersaturated hues.
Nostalgic Noughties Touches: Delving into the archives of the 2000’s, we discussed the return of ruffles and joyous, sweet trimmings. These details bring a whimsical wave of nostalgia to contemporary designs, tapping into the consumers longing for the past and their desire for newness.
Solution Bras: The industries commitment to inclusivity and accessibility was underscored with the introduction of solution bras for older or handicapped women. Innovative features like the XYX gripper tape and lace laminations were presented as means to enhance comfort and support, meeting the unique requirements of this customer segment.
Guest speaker Nichole de Carle followed with a presentation discussing the move from Web2 to Web3 and solutions for brand growth. Explaining how marginal brands enter the mainstream driven through micro multinationals. Here is an overview:
Making Marginal Brands Mainstream: This was executed via the “inclusion revolution”, brands and their holistic approach to sustainability and the explosion of hybrid product categories. Dying Fringes: Size ranges that are too niche overcomplicate customer purchasing experience. Limited skin tone offerings and using recycled fabric compositions should be part of the norm and not marketed as unique selling points. Fringes on the Rise: Tomorrows thriving fringes that will become micro multinationals: Adaptive and inclusive product and digitally lead (CGI, AI, VR, Metaverse) built in to the process from product ideation to customer experience.
Trend & Retail Inspiration by Vanessa Cause of WSN
WSN’s selection of the most innovative and qualitative products on the market alongside emerging trends in the swimwear and intimates sector. The importance of hand crafts and textural techniques is the dominating mood in Vanessa’s seasonal presentation. Bobbin Laces, Gilding Rituals, Horticulture Colourations, Beading Bling and Block Printing were the categories; an enormous opportunity for lace and embroidery manufacturers to develop characterful finishes and experiment with unique design here.
Concepts Paris x Sanko Talk
A champagne talk to the backdrop of the billowing “Pas de deux” art installation by Daniel Wurtzel; Jos teamed up with Sanko Textile to discuss their company ethos and latest developments. The theme was balletic sensuality and softness: collections of cotton modal that are dance and movement inspired. With a focus on fleece cotton knits that contour the form and modal blends that defy contortion. Alongside women’s jersey lounge in new proportions and the rise of hybrid products.
Fabric Focus & Innovations
JY Textiles’ bonded TPU boning in free-cut sports and shape wear. Also used in Skims new corseted solutions collection. Utax exhibited further developments in flexible TPU boning technology, achieving soft yet strong stabilisation in active garments. Alongside their weighted bubble tech fabric designed for training & running, with built in shock absorbers, can also be used for joint and back protection as well as having recovery benefits such as targeted sports massage capabilities.
JY Textiles new Dri Tech fabric demonstrated its super absorbency and anti-bacterial features. They also exhibited a new leak proof gusset with a three layer system. Plus their new Kaleidoscope engineered jacquard. The Turbo Dry also technology offers new dimensions in drying technology with surface contact angles, capillary effects and moisture removal for sweat management.
Unitex displayed a new range of Bio-Based articles with zero feel, anti-odor, infrared yarns, moisture management, 360 stretch and wicking cool touch, utilising vegetable nylon for oil reduction. Willy Hermann's new viscose deep-dye techniques mean they’re able to create a melange effect in colour and not just grey. They also had articles infused with an anti-bacterial hydrophilic finishing and jersey micro modals with polyamide aloe vera for enhanced skin benefits.
Not Just Pajama are a sleepwear brand using hyaluronic acid in their silk nightwear collection.
Celeb Textiles’ new C99 Bio-PD0 eco friendly satin uses 100% polyester and zero elastane, with extended stretch, this article imitates the hand-feel and modulus of it’s elastane precursor.
The Utax D-lace bra uses a special knitting technique to control the density of lace in different locations. Low density = good stretch and with more concentrated yarn you can achieve powerful lace compression. Spring Duray displayed their one-piece-bra lace in fresh designs. We also saw the new collection by Chantelle: Pulp Swim which utilises a new swim fabrication based on their SoftStretch innovations.
The general vibe of the Exposed section this July was that it takes more than an aesthetically beautiful brand to stand out here. Each brand we spoke to had clever and creative concepts and a niche cross-category offering that taps into its consumers mindset and industry trends:
New French brand OTT offers organic Terri towel cotton products that aim to “reinvent the pleasure of the after-bath”. This mirrors Jos’ expressions in the VIP presentation of customer “elevate me moments” within the home. Shanghai based lingerie brand Her Senses is causing a storm with it’s French inspired collections of un-lined bras and chic styling, defying traditions and catering to the contemporary Chinese woman. Martial offers vibrant jacquard pieces in genderless shapes and describes itself as “swimwear in the city.” Swiss brand Fogal use seamless WKS warp knitting technology in natural/ recycled fibres Q-nova and Roica to create cross-category swim and yogawear products. Chamade is a tactile DIY brand offering hand-made yarn-knit and crochet swim/ underwear pieces in either finished products or customers kits to knit at home.
The Curve Capsule & Esmod Exhibition
Students of Esmod were invited to exhibit their latest garment or material collections in the new Curve Capsule area at the fair. Highlights of which were the material experimentations by the students using laser cut and laser engineered techniques to create examples of bobbin laces, or screen blocking and printing to re-invent lace and embroidery concepts and elastic treatments. The organic movements and patterns created by this process feel raw and contemporary as well as delicate and romantic - a mood always wished for in the world of lingerie. Super inspiring for lace developments.
Written by Jessica Haughton