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Signs of Change
by CONCEPTS paris *
A/W 2009-10
Signs of
Change
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Signs of Change
Signs of
Change
Observations
Salon Internationale de la Lingerie
Interfilière Paris
Shopping Highlights
Preview a/w 2009-2010
Colours
Print & Colour combinations
The 4 Design Concepts
Memo
Memo
This book talks about change in the lingerie world: change taking place right now and what’s in the pipeline for the Autumn/Winter 2009-2010 season. Change is also the focus of our website which offers clients news and trend updates and will shortly provide an interactive platform for discussion.
Logon to www.conceptsparis.com
Observations
Salon Internationale de la Lingerie
Interfilière Paris
Shopping Highlights
Retro Constructions
Designers are raiding the archives for inspiration. From subtle interpretations using stitching and seaming details to a serious comeback of retro shapewear looks adapted to modern, lightweight fabrics.
In early spring Paris shops display a comeback of retro and the importance of construction with interesting seam details. Bindings, piping and stitching techniques all need special attention.
High waistlines, waist cinchers, full coverage bras and teddies are making real impact in the market. Body conscious women want shapewear that’s sexy and sexy wear that shapes.
Modern drape
A new generation of lightweight fabrics enables chic femininity and modern design to combine. Perfect drape with clean edges and avant-garde details.
Sexy Panties & Naughty Knickers
As you can see, this is certainly not the time for minimalism! Gathered cups, ruffled layers of lace, mesh and satin and abundant decoration are still big.
Ruffles, gathering and drape
Pizval ‘Crazy Panty’ on the Forum Interfilière
Antique laces and trims
Our fascination with the past continues. Antique look laces and trims are used as if they were fleamarket discoveries. Interesting placement and raw edges allows the fabric to tell its own story.
Vintage underpinnings inspire in Paris. Delicate layers of Valenciennes, cottony laces with black contrast & cute knits dominate the young fashion market.
Thirties inspired
The influence of the Poiret exhibit begins to show. Square necklines and linear constructions echo 1930’s garment design. Our favourite, a Poiret style silk velvet robe and lightweight slip dress at Alberta Ferretti.
Handkerchief cottons and barely-there chiffons combine with Valenciennes and Leavers lace in gorgeous vintage-inspired collections. Our favourite, Letters of Marque, tells a history of treasure, pirates and exquisite antiques.
The shirt is gaining momentum as a key piece in sleepwear collections. From simple tunics to decorated fashion pieces, every woman wants a great shirt as part of her bodyfashion wardrobe.
Comfort, lightness, softness and modern proportions are what matter in loungewear today but don’t forget those designer details like trims and buttons for ‘must-have’ appeal.
Knitwear grows into an important element of our bodyfashion wardrobe. As lingerie brands learn the skills involved in this area, creativity and decoration develops.
Natural knitwear casts off its drab stereotypes. Gorgeous cashmere
and silk knits are at last
merchandised with lace and embroideries, and sex toys at Myla!
Noble blends with feminine details
Knits and satin combine with non-lingerie colours and streetwear details to give this classic fabric a new role to play in modern lingerie collections.
Nature continues to be a source of inspiration for artistic and luxurious surface decoration, from feathers to abstract florals, and geometric impressionist motifs.
Geometric motifs with a masculine edge continue to be a refreshing change from traditional lingerie prints especially when combined with brave colour choices.
Geometrics and menswear prints
Graphical fabric blocking
Fabrics take on a graphical role with the interesting placement of trims, panels and fabric combinations. At Interfilière lace and embroidery manufacturers confirmed geometrics to be bestsellers in Europe and the US, the Asian markets remain floral focused.
Everything that is black and strappy continues to be very sexy. La Perla at Selfridges, London even borders on bondage. Interesting elastics, and RTW finishings add clubwear possibilities.
Accessories display at the Forum Interfilière
Bold decoration and street-inspired fastenings are essentials in modern design that appeals to young people who want lingerie to be a part of their wider wardrobe.
The importance of accessories in modern design
At Interfilière and the Lingerie Salon metallics were a big story. From subtle metallic threads to high shine foil prints and bold metal accessories.
Animal skins that appeal to the young. Re-coloured prints, sexy laces and modern finishings give this lingerie classic a trendy make over.
Animal prints
A voluptuous garden atmosphere. Summer meadow flowers look so fresh in bright colours and daring scales.
A wealth of florals and cute mix’n’match ideas. Contrast colour finishings, mixed geometrics and laces keep it fresh. Princess Tam-Tam start the new rose trend with a faded warp print version.
Pastels, cute prints and a ton of ribbons combine in these not-so-junior sexy collections. A splash of black or interesting mix’n’match combinations give this young look a trendy edge.
Papillon ‘Crazy Panty’ on the Forum Interfilière
Bows in all shapes and sizes. Oversized for a bold statement or thrown around for a
tongue-in-cheek girly look.
Bows, bows, bows
Strong colour and graphical blocking instantly creates modernity, even in retro garments. We love this refreshing update to a classic slip dress at Adorisadora.
Colour blocking
Graphic design and graffiti enter our lingerie world and the search for specialised lingerie prints is no longer a necessity. Look at Jamie Hayon and Kate Moross for inspiration.
In many collections at the salon it was hard to tell whether it was loungewear or RTW. Hoodies with cool surface treatments and dresses with clubbing potential were everywhere.
Preview
Preview a/w 2009-2010
Preview
Signs of Change
Preview a/w 2009-2010
Colours
Print & Colour combinations
The 4 Design Concepts
The Colours
2009 -10
The Colours
Colours are timeless – what adds the NOW is the way they are used together. Our new colours are developed with colour coordination very much in mind. Coordination not only in garments but also in the merchandise mix. Because today colour is the major driving force of lingerie developments. The recent international lingerie fairs and the excellent window displays at Selfridge’s in London and Au Bon Marché in Paris show that colour is the major eye-catcher for brand identification.
For greater colour accuracy and more freedom of choice, we have decided to have our colours prepared and reproduced exclusively for us by a Paris colour lab. Your book also comes with separate swatches of each colour collected together in a “fan” for easier use and reference and for sending to your lab or supplier. For communication purposes, we have also identified for you the closest possible Pantone® references.
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Concepts Paris
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Modern Courtesans
Eccentric Tribes
Eco–Luxe
Everyday is an Art Day
It’s time to create a new role model for luxury and sexy. Forget the usual sexy stereotypes and think instead of rich, stunning, refined garments in sumptuous colours. Opulent blues, flashes of red and heavenly pastels. A mood where seduction and enjoyment go hand in hand. Flirty, young and frivolous with an echo of the curling movements of Rococo and Art Nouveau but always modern. We return to Shanghai of the 30’s and we dream of Chinese decadence and femininity with bold flowers and luxurious silks and satin. Corsets, construction and voluptuous ruffles remind us of a courtesan attitude but now she’s liberated from the confines of the past and she realises her potential in total freedom.
Modern Courtesans
Autumn/Winter 09/10
Signs of Change
70 Concepts Paris
Rococo gets the Lacroix treatment with pale colours in a seductive mood thanks to unusual exotic shiny decoration and darker accents.
The greens modernise soft romantic concepts
Go to Emerald Faerie’s website and taste the mood for colour in merchandising
The wire objects from the young English designer Emerald Faerie inspire new colour schemes in a delicate mood with the important blue/green hues.
Blue and green work together with a touch of shine
Trellis and arabesques of the amazing Paris Art Nouveau
A study of scale in materials and colours taking summery shades with darker outlines for prints, embroideries and laces.
The reds and greenish-yellows update ornamental design
Roses and sensual field flowers cross over seasons
A strong eccentric element develops which leads to greater freedom in colour and print design where graphic trends mix with vintage and exotic.
Seductive darks with a splash of light and a hint of bizarre
Silky passementerie for strap details and fastenings
Just look at Pirelli’s 2008 calendar – Shanghai is a hot trend for bold colours and designs. Roses are revamped, the key is to stay away from the obvious.
Silky and bright with hints of the Shanghai of legends
Feather motifs in modern interpretation with hints of 30’s vintage couture design
The history and designs of the 20’s and 30’s with their urge to make the best out of industrial production echoes our own times. Feathers, arabesques and novelty colours.
Never been more in focus: organic designs with a history
The interior world leads in revamping antiques
Fantastic possibilities to update embroideries, laces and jacquards, combining refined Art Nouveau ornaments with fine yarns and mat/shine effects.
Modern meets vintage in developments of wine & purple
Examples of the organic trend on all the catwalks even at Haute Couture level
Surface decoration inspired by organics crossing over to streetwear but in a high profile luxury context is a major direction for corsetry. A hint of brights is a must
Copper & green in organic mood with metal touches
Big developments in guipure placements and trims inspired by passementerie – look for feathers and tassels to replace bows.
Eccentricity is a winning concept for trimmimgs
Rosana Ansaloni combines graphic metal decoration with silk blends
Elements from streetwear and
utilitarian origins translate into
refined modern lingerie. Combination of lightweight silky materials and metallics in novelty soft colours.
Metallic detail and surface effects with designer touches
The work of the UK designers Comfort Zone inspires for hardware and conversational prints
This is not a trend for low-quality interpretations. It’s about loving hands and natural blends with cashmere, mohair and alpaca for knits combined with cocoon laces!
Only quality can make something so happy and cuddly
Collector’s items of old buttons from Fried Frères in Paris
Reconstructed vintage – the economics of re-use
We have a strong feeling for
cotton and natural blend warmwear including RTR ajour knits, brushed cottons and cosy sleepwear in stereotype rose prints. All vintage – except for the shapes, colours and rangebuild.
A must in Milan: the Spazio Rossana Orlanda’s shop for Slow designs such as Christine Meindersma’s handknits.
The Slow movement accelerates in designer ranges
At Pitti Filati the Slow concept was a big influence: the idea of taking time to develop something durable coincided with the trend to handknits.
Fauvist art inspires for graded effects and organic movement
What makes these colours so exciting is their interaction and the crossover between high luxury and streetwear influences.
Faded effects and novelty marls in luxury naturals
Northumbria University project with Eurojersey at the Forum Interfilière
The influence of interior design decoration lies in new techniques
Laser cutting and no-stitch gluing have drawbacks regarding lingerie standards but young designers are focused on combining organic form and the new skills.
New technology’s strong statement in organic design
Autumn/Winter 09/10
106 Concepts Paris
Crazy charms and hardware develop as major eye-catchers in accessory ranges
Combinations of brights with dark accents for young cotton mix’n’match crossover ranges featuring daring print designs and trim details.
In my world there are no boundaries and limitations
We loved the tongue-in-cheek humour elements at Maison & Objet in Paris. New developments in the Liberty shop brand show the same ‘design with a twist’ attitude with colour & print major.
Everything to keep the winter blues at bay
Two stuffed dogs in an interior stand at the Maison & Objet: humour is fashion
Northumbria University project with Eurojersey at the Forum Interfilière
Invista’s presentation at the Lingerie Salon takes the yoga mood into colour
Everyone talks about stretching and yoga as a starting point for new activewear together with modern technology – and daring to break with classic sport colours, designs and merchandising.
Revive activewear with colour therapy & creative technology
If you are serious about prints, you have to buy this book from one of the icons of the last century
Scandinavian design is in full flow
from Arne Jacobsen’s revival (the egg chair) to Marimekko and Alvar Aalto. Look for large-scales and bold contrasts, to update generously cut loungewear.
No Christmas stereotypes for these cruisewear reds
Very en voque are combinations of antique elements with modern graphics
The new graphics of the post modern boudoir
Very artistique and also very couture chic: developments of black and white with graphics and hints of purplish blue. Black and white photography is a back.
