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Design Concepts
by CONCEPTS paris *
A/W 2009-10
To flip through this book
you can turn the pages
forwards or backwards
by clicking
on any of the
four corners
modern courtesans
eccentric tribes
eco-luxe
everyday is an art day
Not a season for the fainthearted! Economic worries apart, lingerie as a lifestyle product is changing and leading retailers move away from a narrow offer of plunge bras to lots of novelty ranges during the season with more crossover elements such as loungewear and at leisure. The 15-25 year-olds show the way with their frantic consumption of colourful panties and tank tops to which bras are added as must-haves but are not always the prime purchase. Demand for colour and prints to enliven the merchandise is strong.
This new book and our very active web site are full of telling examples of how design is now paramount in the lingerie market. Log in for weekly updates …
www.conceptsparis.com
The colours we have added underline the eccentric luxury lingerie mood which demands new darks to juxtapose with the lighter accents. There is a also a dandy element linked to the growing influence of the Twenties and Thirties which calls for development of masculine darks.
Beware: printing can distort colours so use the fan from our Signs of Change book and check the updates against the Pantone® references.
G
Delphinium blue
16-4519 TC
F
Fluorite green
17-0133 0TC
E
Petunia
19-3632 TC
D
Chocolate chip
19-0809 TC
C
Bombay brown
18-1250 TC
B
Cocoon
14-1025 TC
A
Rose dust
14-1307 TC
9
Jester red
19-1862 TC
Red plum
19-2025 TC
10
Dark purple
19-2524 TC
11
Dewberry
18-3533 TC
12
Aurora pink
15-2217 TC
13
Pink mist
13-2805 TC
14
Purple ash
17-3810 TC
15
Sea fog
16-3304 TC
16
Mineral grey
15-5704 TC
17
18
Limeade
13-0645 TC
Forever blue
16-4019 TC
19
Morning mist
12-5204 TC
20
Ceramic
16-5127 TC
21
Cyan blue
16-4529 TC
22
Skipper blue
19-3936 TC
23
Blue coral
19-4526 TC
24
Olivine
18-0316 TC
25
1
Whisper white
11-0701 TC
Lilac hint
13-4105 TC
2
Orchid ice
13-3406 TC
3
Blazing yellow
12-0643 TC
4
Cloud pink
13-1406 TC
5
Coral gold
16-1337 TC
6
Cashew
17-1137 TC
7
Strawberry pink
16-1731 TC
8
Seduction in an experimental
phase, enlarging its vocabulary through time and cultures
modern accessories, buckles, metal , hardware
interesting balconnets
lightweight ruffles
1930’s sleepwear shapes
SHAPE & FORM
V–necklines
hints of oriental
lightweight pleats
FABRICS
• Silk, satin & jacquards
• Textured trims: pleated, velvet, grosgrain
• Textures, lightweights & shaper fabrics
• New & delicate laces
• Rose motifs
& bold florals
sporty mesh used as inserts in antique lace
metal buckles in satin corsets
Eighteenth Century corsets are updated with modern designer ideas: buckles, metal eyelets, sporty mesh, broad elastic straps and streetwear colour directions.
Oriental traditions inspire shape and cut as well as fabrics, Chinese satin jacquards and prints in bold colour choices create contemporary sexy lingerie.
Bold Florals
Large floral embroideries are back! But only if they’ve had the eccentric treatment. Brave mixtures of print and embroidery combine with eclectic 30’s scarf ideas and fringing.
Generous folding and sumptuous drape add richness to an industry traditionally preoccupied with ‘smooth’.
Our love of roses inspires us to include five shades of rose in our a/w 09-10 colour card and here we use them in lightweight layers for pretty sleepwear.
Fabric: Papillon, Pizval, Sophie Hallette, Taubert
Floating, lightweight textures in hues of lilac, violet and iris. Ribbons add romance.
Designers such as Versace return to the V neckline for sexy and glamourous evening wear. A beautiful direction for high end corsetry where skilled cutting and draping are essential.
SILK & LIGHTWEIGHT JERSEY WITH VALENCIENNES RIBBONS
A 1930’s fashion exhibit at Musée Galliera in Paris inspires a return to gorgeous nightwear with soft, feminine drape, volume and luxurious details and fastenings.
Petal–like lightweights with peach skin, crepe and pleated textures.
Soft Rococo colours and delicately detailed fabrics and trims are updated with green and dark accents, a romantic but trendy concept.
Fabric: Natex Spitzen, Darquer, Liberty Tex
Magical darks with a touch of shine for a fairy like feeling. Delicate Lurex threads give filagree sparkles or high shine all-overs for a watery sheen.
Fabric: Shantou Jinhai Warp, Hana Fashion, Tianhai Lace
Shapewear fabrics in fun contrast colourways create cute and sexy lingerie, retro seaming and vintage shapes add a kitschy feel that young people love.
Romantic with a designer edge
Roses are revamped with designer appeal. Voluminous satins are combined with pleated lightweights in interesting garment shapes.
This fun photo print shaper fabric is a great update for retro inspired shapewear, as much fashion as it is function.
Retro Roses
Roses get the graphical treatment with ‘stencil’ ideas, simple but effective line motifs and printed stitching. Perfect for loungewear wardrobes.
Pretty field flowers with a rustic edge inspire interesting print and embroidery directions. Mixing scales, quality of line and a touch of the unexpected to create a mix’n’match range with a twist.
Lingerie for fashionistas
who love to balance between extremes
feathers & tassels
sreetwear ideas mixed with sexy items
placement ideas
modern details: zippers, metal, heat transfer
menswear influences
asymmetric ideas
sexy sport
clean lines
• Metallics
• Arabesques
• Streetwear fabrics:
camouflage, tie & dye
• Organic laces
• Embossed shaper fabrics
lingerie for eccentric fashionistas
• Open effects: guipure, passementerie, mesh
Fabric: Bischoff, Broderies Deschamps
Fairy like lightweight ruffles and pleats but with a dark edge. Dip dye effects, black guipure and washed out prints give this pretty lingerie a twisted, trendy edge.
Fabric: Anderes Broderies, Encajes
A hint of natural with bizarre organics and animal skin effects. Rich fabric mixing, detailed appliques and fine fabric layering add a designer edge.
Fabric: Toray, Eurojersey
Inspiration from chain mail and armour come together in this utterly sexy, high end collection. Heat transfers produce ‘stapled’ fabric ideas and shield effects, a fashionistas dream when mixed with modern techniques such as moulding and laser cutting.
The bodyfashion industry often shies away from camouflage motifs and ‘dirty’ textures and colours but it is this streetwear edge that appeals to affluent design goupies who want their lingerie to work with their jeans.
Antique laces, embroideries and crochet inspire new openwork techniques such as laser cutting and lightweight guipure.
Fabric: Hämmerle & Vogel, Top Fun
Modern guipures and passementrie are becoming lighter and more supple allowing for creative placements and insert ideas.
Inspirational sketches for creating naughty lingerie with a story to tell.
Art Nouveau is the most relevant reference point of the moment. Exhibitions at the Met in New York, Musée Galliera and Musée d’Orsay in Paris have all made a huge impact. Inspiration from motif, colour and print directions to silhouette and garment details.
feather metal accessories
feather embroidery on tulle ground used as placement
The return of Art Nouveau brings with it the symbol of the feather. Real feathers can of course be used but also notice how Liberty of London have updated their heritage feather motif with a graphical 2-tone print.
Everything metallic, but think generous, from lace and embroideries with Lurex yarns to large metal accessories and rich jewellery details.
Mysterious Green and Blue
F
24
23
Rich blue and greens with a hint of exotic. Peacock feathers, blurred effects, cobweb laces and precious stones .
This wonderful ‘brick’ shade was a must for our colour update after the designer shows for winter 2008/09. We love it as a highlight with dark streetwear shades.
Unexpected colour combinations look effortless in these modern lightweights where seam interest plays with density of colour.
Scrolling arabesques and baroque movements are updated with clean edges and a sporty twist.
Fabric: Lijun Textile, Ghuangzou Tianhai, Penn Asia
Functional jacquard, power nets and tricots are at last available with fashion in mind. Trendy colours, interesting all-over textures and prints are perfect to produce new, sexy shapewear such as the high waist girdle skirt and figure hugging suspender dress.
back view: fitted for ‘smart’ shape
‘Gentleman’s club’ inspired robes and prints for smart loungewear. Printed fleece gives a modern, casual edge.
Fabric: Penn Asia, Louis Vidon
Strong geometric lines and cutouts for a masculine inspired, ultra sexy look. Sporty mesh and stark white technical knits play with opacity and transparency.
Nature as a design attitude,
shaking off stereotypes in an exercise of high style
a mixture of textures for luxury loungewear combined with modern bras, an appreciation of time well spent.
• Knits: mohaire, chunky, ajouré, pointelle
• Noble blends & natural yarns
• Vinatage look cottony laces & cotton voile
• Satin to mix with knits
• Technical fabrics for modern techniques
• Prints: gradients & organics & vintage feel florals
padded sleepwear – rounded shoulders
unusual knits,
mixing, twisting,
knotting
draped shapes
modern decoration & laser cutting
satin & knits
amazing finishings add personal touch
gorgeous
camisoles
FORM
modern corsetry with structure
The true beginnings of our Eco-luxe trend where noble blends are mixed with silk, satin and velvet for luxury loungewear.
Loungewear with a Designer Edge
Natural and noble blends make gorgeous loungewear but it is the designer details that count. Twisting, knotting, raw edge ideas, drape and drawstrings all add fashion appeal.
pleats
twisted drawstring
Padded Forms
Cosy bed jackets are a great addition to a loungewear wardrobe. Rounded shoulders, cute proportions and interesting fabrics turn grandma’s favourite into a fashion item.
White cotton blend jersey is refreshed with inventive use of texture and shape. See the silhouettes on facing page for draped garments with a minimal amount of cutting and sewing.
Modern, hi-tech lingerie inspired by architecture and product design. Technical lightweights and skilled cutting are a must to achieve a clean, polished finish.
A new generation of natural blends in cotton, cashmere, bamboo and aloevera with interesting finish and handle for great basics.
Fabric: Noyon, Tessitura Rossi
Inspiration from nature combined with print effects and novelty marls create this crossover collection, between high luxury and streetwear.
An abundance of textures, knits, weights and volumes is required for this trendy natural direction where ultra light chiffons are thrown together with chunky, layered knitwear.
Fabric: Bugis, Eusebio, Cheynet
Retro inspired designs with vintage feel details and outerwear possiblities are a great update for pointelle knits which remain a favourite with young people.
Fabric: Liebaert, Eurojersey
Nature inspired garments escape the draby stereotype with this sexy corsetry collection. Flesh coloured ‘hoisery’ weight tricot is used alongside organic laser cutting to create an almost naked effect.
Handkerchief cottons and antique-inspired laces remind us of vintage nightwear but ‘barely-there’ fabrics and reconstructed shapes tell a seductive story of found treasure and exquisite antiques.
Fabric: Tessilena, Piave Maitex, Desseilles
Nature inspires us. We love these pretty trims and fabrics with delicate details and textures in refined colourways.
gorgeous ribbon slots for contrast colour
amazing hem details, cross stitch adds hand touch
wider, satin covered straps
inserts and placements with lace & pin-tucked cotton.
Young people love to reconstruct and recycle old garments. Achieve that look with vinatge feel fabrics and details thrown together with mismatched button and neon ribbons.
Vintage feel ditsy florals with unexpected contrast colour make a fun, young mix’n’match collection.
Lingerie for Connoisseurs
Luxury is back. In silk and leavers lace, combined with cashmere sweater knits, re-packaged and re-branded. Real lingerie to make us feel wonderful.
Modern techniques and lightweight fabrics give us the opportunity to create wearable garments with designer details for ‘must have’ appeal.
The democratic attitude
towards art opens unusual vistas for body fashion
contrast colour: stitching, trims etc
mixing fabrics to aide range building
fun t-shirt bras
fleece loungewear items
mix ‘n’ match panty ranges
• Paint splashes
PRINTS
& MOTIFS
• Urban scenery
• Photo prints
• Psychedelic motifs
• New figurative prints
• Fun floral directions
• Hand sketched motifs
& graffiti
• Geometrics: stripes,
checks, spots, squares
Working with Colour Blocks
Blocks of colour and geometrics allow us to play with placement, scale and colour combinations.
Stripes that think outside of the box. Consider layering fabrics and garments to create crazy effects and bold blocks of colour.
Activewear for Fashionistas
Seamfree for comfort, sports bras, breathable tops, warm cover-ups and lots of layers = perfect functional wear for the gym but also great for dancing in the clubs!
Fabric: Henitex, Nylatex, Saelim, Louis Vidon, Della Valle
Urban Graphics
Urban photo prints and graffiti–splashed walls inspire a loungewear wardrobe with clubwear potential. From the city, for the city.
Graphic designers and graffiti artists inspire works of art for everyday use.
Fabric: Eurojersey, Shinkong Tex
Haute Couture gets the artistic treatment with fun tweed and checked prints, contrast colour and kitsch jewellery accessories for a cute and sexy collection.
Strong graphics and black and white photo prints contrast with delicate lace prints and luxury shapes, a creative combination of opposites.
Fabric: Boselli, Lior, Eurojersey
Small scale geometrics in faded colour directions that remind us of archive book bindings. A great mix’n’match concept.
New colours and combinations enter the lingerie scene, classic lingerie embroideries and prints are re-coloured.
Unusual Colour Combinations
Voluptuous florals, vegetation and even city scenes are thrown together in striking border prints. Clever design and cutting can make good use of the border print for interesting placements.
Print: Boselli (customised)
Fabric: D. Velilla, Shinkong Tex
The new grunge scene, crazy mixes of print, colour and texture – not for the faint hearted but young people love the clashing effect of non-related items, proclamation of their youth.
The crazy characters from new graphic designers give us a fun alternative for the teddy bear pyjama.
As Diana Vreeland said “too much good taste can be boring.” So let’s not be boring, break the taste rules with kitsch embroideries and doily laces.
A lingerie classic, and still a favourite in fun colour combinations and mixes of print and plain.
Anderes Broderies anne-marie@anderes-broderies.com
Bebe Cotton bebe@mayctn.com.tw
Bischoff thomas.meyer@bischoff-textil.com
Bischoff Gamma vikas@gammatextile.com
Boselli mboselli@boselli.it
Broderies Deschamps marie.fernandes@broderies-deschamps.com
Brunet FRESSIN-F@Brunet-Dentelles.com
Bugis vroman@bugis.fr
Chanty michael.nielsen@chantylace.com
Cheynet fcusset@cheynet-elastics.com
Chief You Embroidery service@chiefyou.com.tw
Codentel antoine.poitau@codentel.com
Darquer noyon@noyondentelle.com
Della Valle info.tdv@dellavallegroupsrl.it
Desseilles sylvain.pigeon@desseilles.com
Dogi Nelly.Rodrigues@dogi.com
Encajes jacquesgross@free.fr
Estar Broche belgin@broche.com.tr
Eurojersey nmarelli@eurojersey.it
Eusebio alberto.starnini@eusebio.it
Freetex chattaya@freetexelastic.com
Guangzhou Tianhai Lace tianhaifrance@wanadoo.fr
Hämmerle & Vogel iris.haemmerle@h-v.biz
Hana Fashion ivy@hanafashion.com.tw
Henitex nathalie.fillon@henitex.fr
Liberty Tex sales@wintexlace.com jacquesgross@free.fr
Liebaert laura.hebouche@liebaert.be
Lijun Textiles lys@lys-lj.com
Lior info@lastiss.ch annalisa@lastiss.ch
Louis Vidon c.alm@louis-vidon.fr
Natex gisela@natexgroup.com
Noyon noyon@noyondentelle.com
Nylatex gail.lenton@nylatex.com
Papillon christelle.petit@papillonfrance.com
Penn Asia sales@penn-asia.com
Piave Maitex S.Tomas@piavemaitex.com
Pizval estero@pizval.com
Quenby Lanka Prints info@brandix.com
Reyping woody@reyping.com
Saelim Textile brian@saelimtex.co.kr
Seiren kurahashi@seiren.co.jp
Shantou Jinhai stjhjb@163.com
Shinkong anthony@sktextile.com.tw
Sophie Hallette MLESCROART@sophiehallette.fr
Takeda dominique.berhault@takedalace.fr
Taubert knitted-fabrics@taubert.com
Tessilena itic.como@tin.it
Tessitura Rossi sabrina.rossi@tessiturarossi.it
Thoviste christine@thoviste.fr
TMG rvi.angelo@tmg.pt
TopFun topfun@21cn.net
Toray jacquesgross@free.fr
Union AG dpinkwasser@union-ag.com
Fabric resources
Email addresses for fabric manufacturers featured in this book
